Malagueta

The malagueta is an extremely potent hot pepper which grows in Brazil. When blended with olive oil, it makes a piquant molho, or sauce, which livens up any dish. This wonderfully powerful sauce can be found at the malagueta's namesake restaurant in Astoria. (Make sure to ask for it, as it's not listed on the menu.)

Tonight, my friend and I spooned the molho de malagueta over everything but our dessert! We started out with an order of acaraje, tasty black-eyed pea fritters topped with sauteed shrimp and vatapa (a puree of bread, cashews, fish and shrimp. Although this puree was billed as "spicy" on the menu, it was actually rather mild). Since I was a bit too liberal with the hot sauce, I welcomed the opportunity to cool my mouth with exotic juices such as caju (cashew tree fruit juice).

Since it was a Friday, we couldn't order the feijoada (Brazil's national dish, which is only served on Saturdays at Malagueta). So, we enjoyed a shrimp and red pepper stew in coconut gravy, which surrounded a large mound of white rice. I quickly devoured the six jumbo shrimp and then tried my friend's entree, the roasted filet of pollack. The generous portion of delicate, slightly sweet fish was moistened with shrimp sauce and topped with more vatapa.

Sitting behind me was a lively table of people celebrating a "dad-to-be." When I looked to see what goodies they might be consuming, I noticed a plate of mandioca frita. Malagueta offers the fried tuber as an appetizer with grilled Brazilian sausages; it's also an addictive side dish on its own. (I'll order it next time.)

There are three dessert options at Malagueta: milk flan, coconut pudding and passionfruit mousse. We ordered the mousse, which was creamy, refreshing and slightly tart. The accompanying cappuccinos were excellent.

Malagueta offers free delivery to the lucky residents of Astoria.

Malagueta: 25-35 36th Ave., Astoria, NY, (718) 937-4821.